#5 AI Boxer Short Sovereignty

Commencing Nation of Artisans' first making quest

In this week’s post I launch the first quest and share some updates. The TL;DR is: (1) I plan to create the world’s first Fully Automated AI Luxury Boxer Shorts, (2) I reflect on my previously evil (now good) design prize, and (3) share some fun news including the launch of a Japanese language version of this Substack.

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1. Boxers Launch

Today marks the beginning of my first quest: to design and manufacture the most razzle dazzle boxer shorts this nation has ever seen.

Why boxers? Short answer: every good day begins with a good pair of boxers. Long answer: Nation of Artisans stands against briefs and Y-fronts. Bill Clinton must answer for many crimes, but his endorsement of briefs is his gravest. But enough of politics.

There are 7 steps to the boxer short quest: (1) the vision, (2) the materials, (3) the design, (4) the pattern cutting, (5) the manufacturing, (6) the branding, (7) the launch. Am I missing anything? Remember: I don’t have a clue what I’m doing.

Step 1: The Vision

I’ve always been a boxer extremist. I hold most in contempt. The law of the land in the Nation of Artisans will be as follows: any boxer designer peddling vile textile patterns, t-shirt fabrics, fly hole buttons, or exterior branding will be sent to the wall.

I consider Sunspel to be the finest purveyor of boxers. However, they are made in Portugal — the pant making powerhouse to whom we have surrendered our supply chain. In my campaign for Boxer Sovereignty, I declare mine must be made in Britain.

Now, for Nation of Artisans’ first boxers to take their rightful place in the pantheon of pants, they require exceptional design.

I will make two variations:

1. Craft Boxers: True to Nation of Artisans passion for humanity and artisanship, I am looking for an artist to design a special textile print that explores the lore of boxers. I’m thinking something on the historical characters that inspire underwear — perhaps featuring Saint Pantaleon and Pantalone (of Commedia dell'arte fame).

2. Fully Automated Luxury AI Boxers: I’m going to work with an AI textile developer to make the world’s first AI boxer shorts. This may not actually be possible but if it is, then it will be the Nation of Artisans’ first leap towards forging a world of British Heritage-Futurism.

A plea for readers’ boxer insight: before I continue, I also want to hear from you. Please can you share your hot takes on the best and worst boxer shorts in the game.

Step 2: The Materials

There’s a lot of learning to be done here before I make any decisions.

Fabric
Nation of Artisans aspires to use sustainable, local materials. The most comfortable and lasting boxers are made of cotton, which doesn’t grow in the UK. While there are firms who spin it here, I must do more research to get to the bottom of the supply chain.

An alternative option might be flax which can be grown locally. Is it comfortable? I don’t know. Even if it’s grown in the UK, it might be so uncomfortable that it’s unwearable.

I will also look at recycled materials — and dive into the strange new world of materials science.

Elastic
I don’t even know where to begin with this. Presumably it’s all made in China. Maybe a piece of string is the answer?

If there are any materials experts reading this, please get in touch.

Step 3: The Design & Tech Pack

I need very clear instructions and designs to actually get things made. To work with my future manufacturer, I need to develop a tech pack featuring:

• Flat sketches (front/back)

• Materials & trims list

• Construction notes

• Sizing measurements

• Label/branding placements

This seems relatively straightforward.

Step 4: The Pattern Cutting & Samples

I will find a pattern cutter to create a sample based on the tech pack. Then there will be the messy process of alterations.

It has just dawned on me that as I am building in public, I may need to involve readers in this. Any future posts featuring me trying on boxers will be paywalled.

Pattern cutters: get in touch.

Step 5: The Manufacturing

Then I must find a factory who can make a run of the boxers. I have no clue how many units I will make. I don’t plan to go big, but I imagine I’ll have to make 100+. Whether I can sell 100 pairs of boxers is another question.

I’m looking for a British boxer short manufacturer. Ideally someone who would be happy to be part of a film. Let me know if you have any leads.

Step 6: The Branding & Packaging

While I detest exterior labels, I do plan to create a fun interior one. This will be the first manifestation of the logo made flesh. The Nation of Artisans Design Prize will serve as the inspiration for this future label.

Step 7: The Launch

Once the boxers are finally ready, I will:

1. Release Boxer Film: the first of the Nation of Artisans quest-films documenting the story of the boxers.

2. Boxer Sale: Do a little drop, I must sell enough to cover the cost of making them.

3. Notting Hill inspired photo shoot: If (and only if) I sell out, I promise to personally star in a photo shoot outside a blue door in Notting Hill — unless Rhys Ifans & Hugh Grant are interested in participating.

2. Design Prize Update

Last week I launched the Nation of Artisans Design Prize. Within hours I found that I had incurred the wrath of the design community. Why? It turns out my innocent vision of mimicking the 1901 Burberry competition actually replicates some of the most exploitative practices in the design world.

Little did I know, these sorts of competitions are routinely run by brands forcing designers to compete through “spec[ulative] work” e.g. crabs in a bucket compete for pay upon victory while the rest are ignored.

After consultation with some very kind and constructive designers, I’ve made some adjustments:

1. A prize: It’s a now a Design Inspiration Prize with no requirement of actually submitting a logo, but rather submitting prior portfolio work or concept designs — with the winner being the one that best comprehends my unusual British Heritage-Futurism brief. That could be a concept, a logo, or indeed something beautiful someone sketched on the back of a napkin that speaks to the ethos I am attempting to cultivate.

2. IP freedom: I don’t own anything that anyone submits, but I may choose to work with them to develop the full visual identity.

3. Emerging designers: I’m now actively targeting students to create an opportunity for those looking to make their first steps into the world of design. I’m working with a delightful student who reached out to me on Instagram to roll this out (thank you Rafe!)

4. Exhibition: I will showcase all of the submissions in a sort of online exhibition (excluding the very explicit elephant trunk-as-penis that someone has submitted to the Google Form). In the future, I will create a public archive of submissions.

Of course one could argue that the nature of the prize as competition remains exploitative — it’s intrinsically Darwinian.

I have attempted to strike a balance. I am funding this entirely through my day job work. I do not want to exploit anyone. I just want to create something new and beautiful.

3. Other Updates

I’ve been zipping around for work (and pleasure!) from Paris to Berlin. Despite the day job, there are some small Nation of Artisans wins to celebrate:

1. I am launching a Japanese language version of the Substack. After meeting a Japanese journalist, we have decided to launch a Japanese translation. I have no idea if it will find an audience. Yet, I already have a few readers in Japan. Further, I was amazed to receive some concept sketches for the Design Prize from an exceptional artist in Tokyo.

2. Old friend of Nation of Artisans @harfordhouse did a little Instagram Reel about me:

   harford_house

   

   A post shared by @harford_house

3. New Friend of Nation of Artisans

   PREST WORKS
   — a start-up small batch stationer messaged to tell me he has crafted and sent me a handmade, personalised exercise book. I cannot wait to receive it. It’s so touching that someone could randomly discover my project on the internet, and then make me a gift with their bare hands. Remarkable.
   prest.works

   

   A post shared by @prest.works

4. Nation of Artisans crossed 1000 followers on Instagram. Follow @nationofartisans if you don’t already.

4. Now Try This

1. Last week I finally finished Perfection by Vincenzo Latronico after losing my copy 10 pages before the end a few weeks ago. I loved it. I do not know if Anna and Tom would like Nation of Artisans. I fear they would like it and I am reproducing the worst of millennial stereotypes.

2. I’m now reading Your Life Is Manufactured by Professor Tim Minshall. It’s essential reading if you, like me, want to become a manufacturing tycoon.

3. While in Paris and went on a pilgrimage to Mont Saint Michel to sample their wares. I bought a bright green worker’s jacket in order to do a whole profile on it in the future.

4. I ate at Cinq Mars, Early June, and YARD — all delicious. I also went to Roger Le Grenouille where I met the most cartoonishly rude Maitre D’ France has ever produced. He kicked us out for arriving 4 minutes after our booking, raising his voice in front of all the other diners for no reason! We left without protesting. Then, he promptly ran after us to say we could come in — fortunately he didn’t hear my expletives through the window. For the next hour he awkwardly fed us deep fried frogs legs with a look of shame on his face.

Now please hit that ❤️ button at the bottom and share with all of your friends — particularly any material scientists, pattern cutters, and Hugh Grant and/or Rhys Ifans.

Until next time.